Since there’s so much debate about my verdict on the 58G:
Other than my up-front language suggests, I’m open to revise my assessment. I’m not only open, I WANT you to make me revise my statement. So, this is an invitation.
What I don’t want is another image that shows how beautiful the rendering of XYZ is. That doesn’t help. My whole review is based on the idea of exactly NOT speculating and raving about single images, but about actual comparisons. Everyone can look at the results, compare them and see if what I say is agreeable or not. I don’t force anyone to take my opinion, I just like to write more bluntly rather than use boring language.
Why? Because I’ve worked in marketing long enough to know how it goes. An to know how bullshit is sold to you and me with the right story. One thing is for sure: If there wasn’t a Nikon badge on that lens and not a 1600-Euro price tag on it, but if it was Samyang and 300 Euros, the passion of others about my verdict would be vastly different.
So: I don’t need any beautiful imagery of any lens to see how great that lens is. I’ve seen many beautiful images shot with the 58G. And many beautiful images shot with other lenses that are crappy and cheap. Good imagery isn’t about sharpness, nor is it about high-end equipment, it just helps you getting there.
What I need is an actual comparison that illustrates what you mean, a direct A/B comparison. If you’re interested, take a shot of a motive that illustrates what you think you want illustrated, once with the 58G AND take the same shot with a 50/1.4G, a Zeiss Otus, a Sigma 50 old or Art, and share the result. I’m excluding the 50/1.8G from the selection for obvious reasons, the bokeh can’t compete wide open, as also illustrated in the review. Be sure to compensate for the focal length (go closer to the subject with the 50*) and use the same aperture, ideally wide open. Send me a link to your website, or your post, either here in the comments (for everyone to see) or via email and tell me if I’m allowed to link it here.
* Here’s a simple trick how to achieve correct framing adjustment:
In order to get the same DOF with both lenses, you’ll have to compensate for the focal length difference and adjust the distance. This is very easily done though, it simply means that the size of the object in focus needs to be the same in both images.
So, say you take a portrait shot of someone:
Give your model (=focal plane) an object like a rod or a folding yardstick or something like that that they can hold up (horizontally). Frame in a way that the left and right image borders in your viewfinder exactly touch the ends of that object, i.e. that it exactly fills the frame. Now when you switch lenses, you simply back up or move towards your subject so that the yardstick again fills the frame (i.e. ends touch the image borders). This object can be anything, as long as it has marks that you can use to position the image borders. This is all even easier if you take a still life shot.
Of course, that object is just for adjusting the camera, the model can take it down for the shot. Make sure the model really stays exactly in the position and doesn’t move in between your shots, and that they can position the reference object/yardstick/whatever the same as in the first shot. I.e. not “somewhere” in front of them, but e.g. on their chest, forehead whatever. You get the idea.
In order to not have to deal with to much variation from the adjustment of camera position, it’s best if you level your camera on a tripod (i.e. parallel to the ground). Otherwise, moving the camera back and forth implies you will need to adjust height etc., which makes things rather complicated.
So the best thing is finding a good framing before, then set up your tripod correspondingly and level the camera. When you have moved the camera after the lens switch, just level it again, and you’re set.